Snowboarding in Niseko 「ニセコでスノーボード」

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Had a chance to go back up to Hokkaido for a ski and snowboard trip at Niseko, one of the top ski resorts in Japan and a destination that has made it to at least one “top-100” lists. We got incredibly lucky with some fresh powder throughout the weekend, making for some really great conditions for skiing and snowboarding.

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We stayed at the Hilton in Niseko Village, notable for being the only hotel in Niseko that is ski-in ski-out. I will admit it was really convenient to be able to walk outside right onto the gondola, but I thought that was about all it offered. Lousy service and marginal food. Although with views like these from the guest rooms, I guess I shouldn’t complain.

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Once the sun came out, the view of Mt. Yotei came out from behind the clouds, as if entranced in a dream. It’s amazing how it is utterly invisible on a cloudy day – when I first saw it on Saturday, I could not believe my eyes.

Yoteizan is also known as Ezo Fuji, Ezo being an old name for Hokkaido…Hokkaido’s Mt. Fuji. It really does look a lot like Fujisan.

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What made this trip so quintessentially Japanese was the izakaya we went to one night. Typically I crave fried food and chocolate when I’m out snowboarding (carbs and sugar!), but as they say, when in Rome… Since we were at a Japanese izakaya we ordered sashimi, tofu, mussels and had a huge pot of hot nabe. Quite a big difference from the burgers and fries I usually order.

Niseko Food

The resort itself was not as big as I expected, and to my surprise, given Japanese signature efficiency, I felt the lifts and gondolas were a bit slow, and the lines pretty chaotic and inefficient (no singles line!). The food options were limited – I longed for the vegan cafe in the main lodge at Mammoth – and the lines, again! I hate being negative, the slopes themselves were delightful, but to be honest I missed terribly the California vibes of Mammoth. Perhaps it is the continued long winter that is finally getting to me. Unlike in San Diego, where snowboarding is a quick winter retreat from the sunshine, snowboarding in Japan is simply a trip from one freezing city to a freezing-er city, each minute praying that snow or ice doesn’t delay or cancel your flight.

Speaking of the winter blues, with winter inertia setting in at full speed, I completely missed the plum blossoms in Tokyo. These late-winter flowers are some of the most beautiful and fragrant – they were at peak blossom during the weekend I was in Niseko. I had to find solace in some remaining blossoms in Shibakoen before a week of rain washed everything away (with an iPhone that didn’t seem to focus properly). Fingers crossed that I come out of mental hibernation for the sakura!

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